Licensed & Insured Independent Pros
Every call goes to an independent contractor who carries liability insurance and holds licensing where your jurisdiction requires it. Ask to see both before any concrete is cut.
If your Wickes basement takes on water after every storm, call now. We'll connect you with a licensed, insured independent contractor who diagnoses the source and quotes a permanent fix upfront.

Most wet basements have more than one thing going wrong at the same time. Short downspouts dump roof water right at the foundation. The soil that was backfilled against the wall when the house was built settles and starts to slope inward. Then a long rain saturates that loose fill, and hydrostatic pressure drives water through the weakest point, which is almost always the cove joint where the wall meets the slab.
That's why spot-fixing one crack often moves the leak three feet down the wall. Real basement waterproofing looks at the whole picture: how water reaches the foundation, how it gets through, and where it can be safely collected and pumped away. The contractors we connect you with in Wickes start with that full picture before recommending anything.
The goal isn't just a dry floor next week. It's a basement you can finish, store things in and stop worrying about every time the forecast calls for rain.

Every basement waterproofing plan starts with one question: stop the water outside, or manage it inside? Exterior work keeps water off the wall entirely. It means excavating to the footing, applying a membrane and installing a new footing drain, and it's the most thorough option. It's also the most disruptive, since decks, patios, landscaping and sometimes driveways sit right where the trench needs to go.
Interior drainage accepts that water will reach the foundation and gives it a controlled path out. For the majority of existing homes, interior drainage hits the best balance of cost and results. It relieves hydrostatic pressure at the footing, where most seepage starts, and it can be installed in any season without tearing up the yard.
Some basements need both. A contractor might excavate one badly leaking wall under a downspout-heavy corner and run interior drain tile along the other three. Others start with grading and gutter fixes, then monitor through a full season before committing to a bigger system. The right answer depends on your foundation type, your soil, how you use the space and your budget.
Whatever the plan, ask the contractor to sketch it on paper: where the drain tile runs, where the sump sits, where the discharge line exits and how far it carries water away. A clear plan is the easiest way to compare quotes fairly.

You need a contractor who thinks in systems, not patches.
Every call goes to an independent contractor who carries liability insurance and holds licensing where your jurisdiction requires it. Ask to see both before any concrete is cut.
Expect itemized written pricing: drain tile by the foot, pump and backup by model, membrane by the wall. No open-ended hourly billing.
Contractors who work in Wickes can usually inspect within a day or two, and same day when water is actively coming in.
Pin and pinless moisture meters, thermal imaging cameras, concrete saws with dust shrouds and hammer drills for weep holes. The right gear makes for a cleaner, faster install.
Every basement gets a different mix, depending on what the inspection finds.

A channel is cut along the slab edge, perforated pipe is bedded in clean stone beside the footing, and the slab is re-poured. Water now drains to a sump instead of spreading across the floor.
A sealed basin collects the water from the drain tile, and a properly sized submersible pump sends it out through a discharge line with a check valve. Most contractors recommend a battery backup in the same pit for storms that knock out power.
A dimpled plastic membrane fastened to the wall and tucked into the drain channel lets seepage run down behind it into the drain tile. It also blocks wall moisture from reaching framing if you plan to finish the space.
Hollow concrete block walls fill with water like a cistern. Drilling small weep holes into the bottom course of each core lets that trapped water drain straight into the new perimeter system.
Often the cheapest and most overlooked part of the job. Extending downspouts six to ten feet, regrading soil to slope away from the house and fixing window well drains can cut the water load on the foundation dramatically.
Even a dry basement can feel damp. An energy-efficient, ducted or drain-to-pump dehumidifier keeps relative humidity around 50 percent, which stops mildew and protects stored items.
The biggest cost driver is how many linear feet of drain tile the basement needs. A system along one leaking wall costs far less than a full perimeter. After that, the price moves with the foundation type, since block walls need weep holes and poured walls don't, and with how much is in the way. Finished walls, built-in shelving, stairs and mechanical equipment along the perimeter all add labor.
The sump setup is the next big piece. A basic pump in a new basin is one price, a pump plus battery backup is another, and a duplex system with an alarm is another again. Wall membranes, dehumidifiers and exterior grading work are usually separate line items, so you can pick what you actually need. Permits, where your local building department requires them, are typically included in the quote, but it's worth confirming. A contractor working in Wickes can walk through each line item with you and explain which pieces are essential and which can wait.
Here's what to expect after you pick up the phone.
Call +1-866-476-1348 and describe where the water shows up and when. We'll ask if the space is finished and whether you have a sump pump.
You'll hear from a nearby contractor quickly to set an inspection, with same-day visits for active water.
Expect a full inside-and-outside inspection, moisture readings and a written quote broken down by system component.
After install, the contractor walks you through pump testing, maintenance and the written warranty.
One call connects you with an independent local pro who'll find the cause and quote the fix upfront.
Call +1-866-476-1348We'd paid for crack sealing twice and the water kept coming back. The contractor explained that the cove joint was the real problem and installed interior drain tile with a sump. Two spring seasons later, the floor is bone dry.
Keisha D., Wickes
He spent forty minutes outside before he even came downstairs. Turned out half our problem was a downspout dumping right at the corner. Honest guy, fair quote.
Tom R., Wickes
We wanted to finish the basement but didn't trust it. They put in a membrane on the walls and drain tile around the edge. The remodeler said it was a textbook install.
Laura M., Wickes
Called on a Sunday expecting voicemail. A real person answered and a contractor came out Monday morning with a moisture meter and a written quote by lunch.
Ben A., Wickes
A typical interior system takes one to three days. Exterior excavation jobs usually run longer because of digging, membrane cure time and backfill.
Waterproof paint helps with light dampness, not with water being pushed through the wall. If water pools on the floor after rain, you need drainage, not paint.
Plan to move belongings about three feet away from the walls being worked on. The contractor will tell you exactly which walls during the inspection.
Cutting concrete creates dust, but good contractors use saws with water or vacuum dust control, plastic sheeting and negative air to keep it contained. Most homeowners stay in the house during the job.
A dry basement with a transferable written warranty tends to reassure buyers and inspectors. It also makes the space usable, which matters more than any appraisal line.
Test the sump pump each spring and fall, keep the discharge line clear, and check the battery backup yearly. Ask the contractor whether they offer an annual inspection.
Calls from every part of Wickes and nearby towns are routed to local independent contractors. That includes older homes with block foundations, newer poured-wall builds and finished basements.
See the zip codes and nearby cities below. If yours isn't listed, call anyway.
